Trutrack is a car suspension specialist better known to most non-rev heads as a fun and funky cafe/restaurant with a real sense of Italian hospitality. The proprietor Sam professed no knowledge of celebrity chefs such as Neil Perry and Shannon Bennett but certainly knows how to pour a terrific coffee - not all that common even in Melbourne. Trutrack is one of those examples where Melbourne successfully copies the European model of trattoria with no fine line between a quick snack and a coffee or a dallying afternoon lunch with a wine or three. It's an eclectically decorated space with dominant bar whence all are greeted with friendly welcome, tables are bare-topped, and the trip to the loos will take you via the workshop.
Menu - The menu offers a cover-all selection of entrees, pastas and mains with a daily specials board outside (they recite it to you at table) that honours the seasons. Calamari comes either crumbed and pan-fried or, as we had it, char-grilled to smokey tenderness; its salad a cool counterpoint although out-of-season tomatoes could have been forgotten - we did. Lovely, fresh Carpaccio of salmon is simply dressed a touch of oil, some onion and capers and chewy sourdough soldiers that disappeared far too quickly. Fish of the day was gently cooked fillets of rockling: the sweet, flavoursome fish sparring successfully with a sauce of sweet/earthy mushrooms and cream. House-made gnocchi has three options of saucing, the gorgonzola perfect for winter: a generous serve dressed well with the creamy cheese sauce, and a simple pear and rocket salad balanced both mains. Trutrack is the sort of place where bread and butter pudding just seems the thing to do, and its version spiced with fruit compote is not too bad, and again enough for two.
Wines - The wine list plays it safe but covers most bases; all but one red at the lower end of the price scale. Trutrack trades as a bar cafe as the afternoon fades into evening (will open for dinner in coming months) and has a fully stocked bar.
Summary Trutrack has a loyal following, and deservedly so, as this place has a friendly and genuine sense of hospitality, something a million dollar fit-out can't guarantee. The menu is well chosen for the season, and specials round out the balance and interest. It doesn't try too hard but delivers on fresh flavour and careful cooking. The staff keep an eye on proceedings and approach when you need anything. Coffee is great which may be the reason local business people drop by throughout the day for their re-charge. And, if you dally long enough, they can fix your suspension into racing mode out the back.