Less than 30 minutes from the centre of Adelaide, the "Hills" area is like setting down in a different country: a verdant, beautiful rural area dedicated to fruit and, increasingly, to high quality wine. The restaurant gem of this stunning area is, without doubt, the 1860s flour mill, Bridgewater Mill. Anybody caring to argue with us on this has never sat on the deck with the mill-wheel splashing the waters gently and the breeze rustling the poplars lining Cox's Creek as you are served the refined modern food. The deck is open only in the warmer months (September through April), but the Petaluma Room is also charming, and the food overcomes all else. This is seemless fusion food that can vary its influences from the classic French (more in cooler months) to the lighter modern Asian, but is just as exciting at either end of the spectrum. Sweets can be rather fussy but again fine quality. The wine list is obviously limited to the output of Petaluma and Bridgewater Mill labels, with the odd French classic, but at great value prices, and with large availability by the glass, we have no argument at all.